- Chrono24 analysis shows the trends from 2024 on the secondary market for luxury watches
- Cartier with the strongest growth among the top brands
- Models such as the Cartier Tank, Tudor Black Bay and Patek Philippe Complications were in particularly high demand
Which luxury watch brands and models were particularly popular in 2024? To answer this question, the world’s leading online marketplace for luxury watches, Chrono24, comprehensively analysed the most important secondary market trends in the past year – and identified a clear winner. The analysis looked at established brands and models that have a share of at least one percent of the secondary market.
The trend brands in 2024
Among watch brands, Cartier is the clear winner in 2024. The French luxury house recorded a 23.8 percent increase in market share compared to 2023, continuing its remarkable rise in recent years. In 2020, Cartier’s transaction volume was still at three percent, in 2024 it was already at five percent (+66 percent).
Alongside Cartier, Vacheron Constantin has also increased its market share by double digits (12 percent, second place). Behind them in third place is Rolex sister brand Tudor, with an increase of 8.6 percent making it one of the ten top-selling brands in the secondary market for luxury watches despite falling prices since 2022. Seiko also recorded a significant increase of 7.4 percent (fourth place). Omega (4.9 percent), Jaeger-LeCoultre (3.4 percent) and TAG Heuer (3 percent) occupy places five to seven with comparatively large increases.
In a comparison of the less established luxury watch manufacturers (market share of less than one percent), Hermès showed possible signs of a new trend: the French luxury brand grew by 55.6 percent. Piaget, whose models have similarities to Cartier, and Universal Genève, recently acquired by Breitling, also grew by around 50 percent.
The trend models in 2024
A look at the market share development of individual watch models shows which models have significantly shaped the Cartier trend: the Cartier Tank recorded growth of 30.9 percent, followed by the Santos with 27.7 percent – putting both models in the top two places. The Patek Philippe Complications follows in third place with a growth of 13.6 percent. The top five is completed by the Tudor Black Bay (12.3 percent) and the Breitling Navitimer (11.9 per cent). They are followed by the IWC Pilot (6.9 percent), Omega Seamaster (5.9 percent), Patek Philippe Calatrava (5.2 percent) and the Omega Speedmaster (4.1 percent).
The most popular designs
In terms of case shapes, elliptical watches dominated in 2024 with an increase of 15.4 percent compared to the previous year. Gold dial colors were particularly popular (16 percent), while rose gold (9 percent) was the most popular material. The strong increase in Roman numerals on dials (10.7 percent) reflects the general Cartier trend. In terms of case shapes, this can also be seen over the longer term: since 2020, rectangular watches have gained an average of 6 percent each year, more than any other shape.
Watch expert Balazs Ferenczi, Head of Brand Engagement at Chrono24:
“Since 2020, Cartier increases its market share by an average of 13 percent each year. This has made the French luxury watch brand the fourth most popular watch manufacturer on the secondary market, driven by the iconic and successful Cartier Santos and Tank. It has been number two on the primary market for years.
Only Vacheron Constantin has seen a similar development. The Geneva-based manufacturer is increasingly gaining market share in the high-end segment and impresses with high quality, comparable to Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet, but is more attractively priced. With the recently launched 222 in steel, it has also sparked renewed interest in the secondary market. Currently, the new 222 is trading at three times the list price. The model was also designed by Gerald Genta, just like the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet and the Nautilus from Patek. These developments indicate that Vacheron Constantin is about to catch up in the long term.
Overall, these developments show that brands with a clear design code, heritage and strategic pricing have the best chance of expanding their market share. We are excited to see whether the up-and-comers will continue their 2025 trend. They hold all the cards.”